Vintage tool kit: Shoes

I’m often asked what cleaners and other repair items I keep in my vintage tool kit. Even the most beautiful of vintage pieces can use some love to get into top-notch, wearable condition. I’ll share some here over the next few posts, and be sure to chime in with your favorite tools or cleaning tricks.

The Vintage Tool Kit: Shoes

• Leather care kit—Keep cleaners like 409 and Windex away from leather shoes. Instead, use a leather care kit that comes with a cleaner and conditioner. Use a soft cloth.
  • Side tip: You can use Windex on patent leather. If you still have scuffs and marks, try acetone nail polish remover on a cotton ball or swab. You only need a little!

• Goo Gone—for pesky price or size stickers that may be stuck to the bottoms or insoles of shoes. Use an old rag instead of paper towels.

• Mr. Clean Magic Eraser—An essential for sprucing up the bottom of a shoe that has a price written on it with a grease pencil. Nothing I’ve used works better. Just add water!
  • Bonus tip: Cut your Magic Erasers in half. You only need a little muscle for each shoe, so save the rest of the sponge for later!

• Super glue— Use this for insoles that have started to curl and flap. Be aware that a new tube of super glue will dry up on you in a flash, so save a couple of fixer-uppers for one super-glue sitting.

• Mod Podge— Is a less-threatening substitute for super glue when you need to put an insole in its place. Use an ordinary paint brush to apply, and don’t forget to clean the brush when you’re finished. Mod Podge can sit in your closet forever and still be ready in a pinch. It’s a crafty cure-all.

Working with canvas shoes (like some classic Chuck Taylors)? Make sure you have:

• Woolite, my most favorite detergent
• 10-quart bucket
• A scrub brush or sponge with a tougher, coarse side

Yes, you can wash your kicks without ruining them. Make a sudsy soak for your sneakers (warm water, just a smidge of Woolite) and dunk ’em. Let sit for 10 minutes. Dump the dirty water, and refill halfway with a smidge more soap. Scrub to your heart’s content, but keep in mind any delicate areas of the shoe if it’s truly vintage and not your favorite modern pair. You don’t want to get overzealous and end up sad.

Don’t worry if not every smudge or streak of dirt disappears. Your shoes may not look like new, but they’ll certainly look a little more fresh.

Rinse, squeeze out as much water as you can, and air dry for as long as it takes. I like to stick my shoes out on the porch or balcony for a whole summer day if it’s sunny. If the shoes aren’t dry at the end of the first day, bring them in overnight and put them out again in the morning.

What’s your go-to product or method when you find awesome vintage shoes that need a cleanin’?

I’m also on the lookout for natural cleaning options where possible. (For now, just don’t tell me what’s in the Magic Eraser.)

A word about: Vintage shoe sizes

By the time Quarter Life shoppers are asking me about vintage shoe sizes, they’re frustrated. “Why are vintage shoes so small?” they ask while trying to cram their completely average feet into tiny, tiny shoes.

I have several untrustworthy, not-entirely-medical theories about why our feet are bigger now than they were 100 years ago, but they all sound a lot like my theories on why we can’t fit into tiny-waisted dresses anymore. We are simply larger than we used to be—in height, weight, and everything in between.

It doesn’t mean great vintage shoes aren’t out there for everyone to enjoy. It just takes a lot of searching and patience to find those that fit you.

Before you look at a single pair of shoes online, measure your foot. This is a reliable way to know if something has any chance of fitting, and any good online retailer will provide measurements. Measure the length of your foot (from heel to big toe) and the width across the toe box (from the joint of your big toe across your foot). Do this with your foot flat on the floor, on top of the tape measure. I find that it’s also helpful to measure across the big toe’s big joint, you know…the one that gets bunion-y for some of us. Trust me, the last thing you want is a pair of shoes that rubs your bunions. Pinched nerves are awful.

If you’re trying shoes on in person, take a guess two sizes above your normal size. If you’re an 8 and the shoes all look pretty narrow, give a 10 a shot. Start with the foot opposite your dominant hand (if you’re a righty, start on your left foot). This is another theory I can’t back up the science on, but this handy international shoe size converter site (more on that later) mentions it and I know the two-different-sizes issue can be a pill.

eBay seller modlucy offers this guide to all those letters on the inside of vintage shoes:

If the shoe is marked “S,” it stands for slim.
If the shoes is marked “N,” is stands for narrow.  
If the shoe is marked “B” or “M,” it is a normal width.
If the shoe is marked “C,” then it is either wide or a men’s pair.
If the shoes is marked “W” is for wide.

Vintage Vixen also notes that widths range from AAAAA to D. Some better vintage shoes have two widths listed: the toe box as well as the heel.

How should the vintage shoe (or any shoe) look once it’s on your foot? I’ll refer you to Kassie at Simply Soles to school you. If the shoe doesn’t truly fit, don’t force it. It’s not worth the pain.

Once you find a pair that fits, it’s important to consider the materials and quality.

Some easy fixes:

• New heel taps ($5-$10)
• Rubber piece added to sole for your stability ($10)
• Insole coming up? Just super-glue it down
• Want a new insole? Get a cushy one from CVS. ($10)
• Leather cleaner and conditioner to spiff up your new kicks (I love Apple‘s cleaning kit)
• For genuine, sturdy leather, try stretching (It works. I swear.)

Not easy fixes:

• Stretching patent leather (not worth the effort)
• Having the entire sole replaced ($30-$40 and up)
• Leather that’s cracking or crumbling
• Vinyl that’s peeling
• Suede that flakes off

The bottom line: When it comes to vintage shoes, you’re Cinderella. Someday your shoe will come.

Some resources to keep close by:

International Shoe Size Converter

Vintage Vixen Buying Guide: Vintage Shoes (especially note the list of qualities/features to look for—bottom of the page)

Truth in advertising: DC on Heels happy hour

It’s not just a cute name: Markette and Vanessa of DC on Heels are serious about their footwear. I stopped by their happy hour at Park on Friday night and was blown away by Vanessa’s shoes. Sadly, I don’t think they glow in the dark. They do, however, stand out in a crowd. Go heels go!

♥

Field Trip: Smash Records

2314 18th Street NW, Second Floor

Washington, DC 20009

202-38-SMASH

www.smashrecords.com

I know, I know. You’re sitting there like, “Jeebus girl, this is a record store not a vintage or thrift shop. You’re doin’ it wrong.”

But I’m not! Scout’s honor.

The same day that the roommate and I wandered into Meeps, we tripped upon Smash. We wouldn’t have given it a second glance except she noted that the easel sign out front mentioned vintage. So wander we went, inside and up the stairs.

There are a ton more records than there are clothes here, but think about it: records take up much less room, and therefore approximately a zillion of them can be crammed in a small space. Clothes and shoes: slightly more cumbersome. The front half of the store has all the vintage and thrift goodies. It’s a good mix of old stuff, and newer secondhand stuff that has an old vibe to it. There were all sorts of people in the store, which smelled kind of like armpits, and patience was required when visiting the racks. Everyone gets a turn to look and touch!

Prices aren’t out of this world but are markedly higher if you’re looking for a big name like Betsey Johnson–which, if you peek around, you can find. I was pretty proud of the shoes I bought at Smash. I had been looking for work-appropriate flats for a while, hoping to find a pair that would withstand my hellacious commute through the winding, faltering Metro system of doom. And I am a fool for some patent-leather shoes, or at the least something similarly shiny. So for $16 (plus tax of course), those cute flats were mine. I am still breaking them in, but they look glorious. Check ’em out–they even have fake taps on the bottom. They look awesome when I’m flying down the platform at Metro Center.

Stop by Smash after brunch during your weekend stroll of Adams Morgan. If you’re not too hungover, you’ll enjoy poking around here. Maybe get a few LPs while you’re at it.

Shuffle fake-tap shuffle!

Modeling my new shoes in front of the store, ignoring the extensive amount of clash I am creating in the process

♥

Thrift Tip: Shoes

Almost everyone I talk to about my thrifting adventures seems to recoil when I want to show off the amazing shoes I just bought. “Ew, old shoes,” people say, or, “There have got to be some germs in there.”

Well, I’ve never even had a case of athlete’s foot. So thrift store shoes get my vote. Here’s how to make wise choices about it:

Wear slip-ons: The last thing you want to be doing in the middle of the aisle in a crowded thrift store is untying your Chucks or fussing with socks. Summertime is great for buying thrift shoes because you can get away with your flip flops. But until we’re frost-free, try some simple flats. You want to be able to be spontaneous as you look through the shelves.

Seek Quality: I don’t care if they’re cute–this is not the time to be scooping up all the Payless shoes that you could have gotten new for $10. This is your shot to get real quality shoes for a low price, so take advantage. If you’re not sure if the brand is a trustworthy name, look at the construction. Does the shoe look cheaply-made? What are the materials? Is the shoe worth being secondhand? Think about these things before you even try the shoe on.

Examine Wear and Tear: Some shoes are in mint condition and have only been worn once. Some shoes have some wear, but are still in good enough shape to be worth the purchase. And still some are just not worth trying to clean, polish, or cobble into something wonderful. Make sure none of the seams are coming apart. Make sure any scratches aren’t noticeable enough to embarrass you. Make sure the sole can last for the duration of your footwear love affair. For canvas shoes (I’m looking at you, cork wedges) make sure that the fabric isn’t dingy.

One exception that I often make regards the lining of the shoe. It’s not a big deal when the flap is coming up, as it’s easily glued back down. More important, you should check under the flap if you see that it’s loose. Checking there can tell you a lot about the construction of the shoe. If it looks cheap, leave it behind. If you go, “Wow, this shoe is nice,” then it’s a keeper. Just get out a little super glue.

That’s it! If you see a pair you like, take them home and enjoy them. If you’re squeamish, spray them with some food deodorizer or something. And when people ask you where you got your hot new shoes, you can decide whether you want to admit they’re thrift. The secret’s safe with me.

Speaking of shoes, remember the dress I bought at the Fashion is Spinach pop up sale?   Last week I found an ideal pair of shoes to match:

I can’t wait to try on the entire ensemble and see how the ivory belt and shoes look with their crystal accents.  These heels aren’t particularly vintage or by a big label, but they’ll be the perfect touch. 

What else do I need to be ready for a June wedding in the dress and shoes?  I’m thinking an ivory clutch, and maybe a small hair clip with little crystals.

♥

Get This: BCBG and nearly new

“If only I were a size 10,” I keep thinking to myself.  Granted, my frame would look awfully awkward with size 10 feet and size 10 shoes, but that’s another story.  All I know is that these BCBG heels are truly something.  I know for a fact that the previous owner only wore them a few times, so they’re virtually free of scuffs and marks.

Pointed toes don’t seem to be going anywhere, so these will be fashionable for many seasons to come.  The T-strap is also a classic, flattering feature.  Personally, I love the white stitching.

If a size 10 sounds perfect, check out these BCBG heels on our eBay page.

In Other News: NorthJersey.com has an awesome feature article about the bevy of consignment shops that have shown up in the Jerz in the past year or so.  According to the piece, the sagging economy elevated the consignment industry.  A bridal-specific consignment shop is profiled in the article as well.

♥

Field Trip: Georgia Avenue Thrift Store

6101 Georgia Ave NW
Washington, DC 20011
(202) 291-4013

The Georgia Avenue Thrift Store is a good starting place for a new thrifter. It’s small, which will prevent that overwhelming feeling that can take over upon walking into one of the area’s larger stores. But there’s still plenty to look at, for even the most experienced of shoppers. The store offers two discounted color tags every day, and regular price items were reasonable when I visited. There are some vintage diamonds in the rough, including a long coat from Yugoslavia. And yes, I consider anything from the time of Yugoslavia to be vintage.

My favorite find of the night was a pair of gold Steve Madden heels, snagged for 7 bucks. “You just had to have the gold shoes,” commented an older man behind me in line to check out. I told him they looked great, but I was worried about keeping my balance in them.

He peered around me to size up the heels in my hand. “No, you’ll be fine,” he said with a smile. “They’re very nice.”

Thumbs up to the old man with style.

♥

Love, Philadelphia

Life took me to Atlantic City this past weekend, where I was greeted with complimentary (at least, I think they were complimentary) issues of Philadelphia Magazine and Philadelphia Style in my hotel room. I was not five minutes into Philadelphia when I noticed some familiar soles: Oxfords. They’re back, apparently. I don’t think I knew they were gone in the first place.

I instantly thought of these babies: Updated Oxfords with a sensible kitten heel and a little extra around the toe, now that toe cleavage is cool. I got them a few months ago to make up for my complete absence of brown shoes in my wardrobe, and love their wearable style.

So a nod to Philadelphia, for pointing out what I new all along: some looks never take a vacation.

Label: Steve Madden
Location: Value Village, Hyattsville (for $5, seriously)
Look: Preppy Oxfords with a girlie side
Likewise: Anything. Pair these shoes with just about anything and you’ll look smart. Promise.

♥